Morocco travel diary

We set foot in a new continent—Africa! Our flight had been quite delayed, so we didn’t reach the Riad until around 1:00 AM. Fortunately, a driver picked us up and guided us to our accommodation. Exhausted from the journey, we barely had time to take in the surroundings before heading to our unique room and crashing for the night. 

Day 1 - Fes:

The next day, when we woke up, we were able to fully appreciate our surroundings. The Riad we were staying in had a beautiful courtyard, which is typical of buildings in the old city where families live. Breakfast was served in this courtyard, and we had a leisurely time admiring everything around us. Once we were finished, we stepped out of the Riad and immediately found ourselves lost. The Medina, or old city, is a maze of roads—reportedly the largest in North Africa, with around 9,700 bylanes and alleys winding through the old town. Each part of the town is dedicated to a different business: one area for the meat market, another for vegetables, carpets, rugs, ceramics, and more.

We made our way to the essentials first: we needed to buy a SIM card for navigation, or we would never manage to go anywhere. Next, we had to withdraw some cash, which turned out to be the only way to buy anything, as we quickly discovered. Once we had those, we found ourselves at the Blue Gate, the entrance to the Medina. We walked around the large square and crossed it to reach the Gardens of Jnan Sbil. This expansive park had fountains and beautiful mosaic features. We walked around for a bit, rested in the shade, and decided what to do next.

We decided to take a walking tour but had to make our way to the other end of the old town. So, we dove back into the chaos of the old streets again. Since it was Friday, most of the stores in the souk and alleys were closed, but still, some stretches of alleys were bustling with activity. The vendors were very friendly and made small talk about India after noticing us. Many, of course, wanted to lead us into their stores but were never rude if we politely declined and walked on.

We reached the meeting point well in advance and decided to have lunch before the walking tour started. We were met by a kind Dutch family who were also on the tour. After some introductions, we began. Our guide was more of a city guide and didn’t explain too much about the history, but he took us to all the touristy spots and gave us plenty of time to take in everything.

As we walked around, we saw a really old bakery with a brick kiln just inside a hole in the wall. It was easily more than a century old. The baker was there, just going about his business, not minding even if we sat near him. He was in his own world, accompanied by a few cats hoping for some treats.

Our first stop was a view of the old city from a higher ground. We could see the green roofs and minarets sticking out against the hills surrounding us.

From here, we went to a street where the craftsmen and weavers prepare their threads. The alley was closed, but the colorful silk and wool, dyed in various hues, hung along the entire street. At the end of the street was a small pool with running water where the yarns and spools were soaked and washed.

Next, we stopped by a mosaic workshop. The artisans were chiseling away at colorful tiles, shaping them into intricate patterns to fit their final designs. We saw a few finished pieces and were blown away by the colorful symmetry.

Our next stop was the leather tannery, one of the oldest still-existing natural leather processing methods. We had heard about the smell of the place, but we were taken to a terrace where we could see the entire area with its colored tubs and leather hanging around in various stages of drying. To bear the stink, we were given some mint leaves to sniff frequently. The hard manual labor, craftsmanship, and skill involved in continuing this arduous traditional process were mind-boggling. The dyes were all natural—blue indigo, red poppy, yellow turmeric, saffron, and colors from pigeon droppings, tamarind, and many others. They explained the process of making leather from different animal skins: goats, sheep, cows, and camels. Afterward, we were taken to a store filled with finished leather goods, ranging from plush jackets to designer bags, wallets, and home décor items, all beautifully displayed.

Next, we walked to the Old Madarsa from the 13th century. This beautiful multistory structure was made of wood and mosaic tiles. The intricate details and the patterns of each corner were breathtaking. It was wonderfully preserved but showed signs of natural aging. The ornate windows and the maze of rooms for the students led us higher and higher, until we reached the roof level, where we looked down into the perfectly symmetrical courtyard. The intricate interweaving of wood, stone, and mosaic was incredibly impressive.

Our next stop was the largest mosque in town, built in the 17th century. We weren’t allowed inside, but we could peek through one of the 14 gates into the central area. The intricate mosaic patterns were dancing in the sunlight from a distance. The prayer calls were just starting, and people were beginning to arrive, so we moved aside to let them through and headed to our next stop.

The following stop was the famous Moroccan argan oil. Inside a spices and oil shop, we were greeted by a multitude of pleasant smells and aromas. We were shown a variety of products made from locally available produce. The salesperson explained many of the advantages and uses of the different products. The pitch sounded a lot like the one we often hear from salesmen in India for coconut oil: "Sarva-roga-nivarani" (the cure for all ailments), whether it's argan oil here, olive oil in Italy, or coconut oil in South India.

Next, we visited the weavers. We saw looms in action and handcrafted blankets and shawls. The most interesting thing was that the silk here was made from the agave plant. The dyes, once again, were all natural.

Our last stop was the copper and brass workshop. There, a very friendly artist and salesman showed us all the different products made from various metals, including plates, knives, and ornaments.

After the tour concluded, we decided to have dinner with the Dutch family. The restaurant suggested by our guide was very good, and we enjoyed a sumptuous meal and great company.

After dinner, we headed back to our hotel and called it a day. 

Day 2: Casablanca

We didn’t have much planned for the day, as it was mainly a travel day to Casablanca. So we packed our stuff and checked out of our place, but we were allowed to leave our luggage to pick up later. We finished our breakfast and headed out. We had planned to go to the Bou Inania Madrasa. We couldn’t enter it the day before. It is a 14th-century Madrasa. Once again, we noticed the intricate designs and the mix of different materials and patterns. This was a more touristy one, and we were allowed to see just the courtyard. But we could see the beautiful arches and colored windows in the prayer hall. It had a minaret, which was very ornate and colorful.

From here, we headed out to explore the streets and ended up in a vegetable market. We exited through a different gate this time and could see the city walls around the old Medina. We went back in and strolled around a bit before stopping for lunch. We weren’t too hungry but decided to eat when we found a nice place.

We had encountered an adept carpet seller who lured us in and showed us some of his collection the previous day, and we had wriggled away from his grip. We told ourselves that we would keep our eyes open for nice ones when we roamed the streets. After a few shops and interactions with different sellers, we had a fair idea of the cost. We had also inquired with our hosts about the cost. So, when we found ourselves once again in the same street, we decided to buy it from the seller we met the day before. He remembered us and happily invited us back to his store again. The shrewd man had recognized that we had our eye on one piece. He immediately brought that out and put it in front of us. But, of course, he showed a few more pieces. Once we had decided to stick to our choice, we negotiated a bit and left the store with both parties satisfied.

It was time to head to the train station. We picked up our luggage again and made our way to the Blue Gate. From here, we took a taxi to the station. It was a quick drive, and we reached there well in time.

We boarded the train; we didn’t know what to expect, but it was pretty decent. Eight seats, four facing each other. When we sat down, six seats were occupied. Soon the train began to move, and the scenery started to change. The vast rolling hills and fields stretched as far as the eye could see. The majority of the area was covered by olive plantations. There were some other crops too, which we couldn’t recognize, and many livestock grazing the green patches in between the sometimes barren fields. These were interrupted by smaller villages or sparsely populated towns with very basic dwellings, as well as a few larger cities where passengers got on and off. After the first half of our journey, we almost reached the coast. We arrived at the capital city of Rabat. We could visibly see the difference in infrastructure and learned that the king of Morocco lived there. So, everything was a notch above the rest. After we left the city, we could see the Atlantic Ocean at a distance along our tracks for the entire journey to Casablanca. Our first view of the ocean from a different continent!

Inside the train, it was particularly stuffy. The air conditioning wasn’t working at full blast, and it was quite a hot day. We started chatting with the fellow passengers and had some amusing conversations to pass the rest of our journey, exchanging stories and experiences from each of our cities and cultures.

As we reached Casa Voyageurs, we found ourselves in a very modern and huge train station. We stepped out of the station to a very posh and modern city center. We had directions to our stay, which was a 10-minute walk away. We checked in to the accommodation and went out for a quick bite at a nearby Asian restaurant. Then, we headed back home and called it a day.

Day 3: Casablanca to Marrakech

We had booked the morning walking tour since we had just enough time for a brief walk around the city. We stayed with an old couple and shared one of their rooms. After breakfast, we left for our meeting point. We took the tram and reached a huge square. We had to walk a bit to reach the Sacred Heart Cathedral. It was a huge Neo-classical Art-Deco style church. The church is now just an exhibition center or a cultural center and no longer functions as a church. We took in a nice view from a park next to it. The park was a massive European-style park designed by a Frenchman. It is called the Arab Park, the biggest park in the city.

From here, we walked around the French quarters of the city, where our guide explained the fascinating history. At the main square, with a huge fountain, were the Palace of Justice and other administrative buildings. They were all constructed in a Neo-Moorish style. The wide pedestrian streets for shopping, the tramways connecting the train stop to the main financial center, everything looked like any typical new European city. But since the buildings weren't as old and the French only built them around the '30s and '40s, the density of Art-Deco style buildings was so great that it stands second only to Miami. Every street corner had a very stylish wraparound corner building. There even stood the old Rialto Theatre, still intact but no longer operational. This reminded us a lot of Mumbai, which looked very similar in many ways.

From here, we came to an underground pass that connects the French part to the Medina part. The old town, once again, is a maze of alleys and markets, and we didn’t dive too deep this time since we were on the clock. But we still stopped by important mosques, synagogues, and churches from the old times, all existing a stone's throw away from each other. After walking around a bit, we came near another gate, which was apparently right on the ocean during ancient times. It was fascinating to imagine how it would have been back then—fishermen's boats docking next to the gates and entering the Medina to sell their catch. To visualize this, we also checked out the fish market with its varied varieties of seafood, from mollusks to oysters, various fishes to sea urchins, in many different sizes. All sitting on ice.

The port gate area, where the waves used to crash against the walls of the old town, has now been reclaimed, and there is a huge marina to cater to the bigger ships.

Our next stop was the Hassan II Mosque. We could see the minaret from a distance. But he led us along another coastal walk, where it was lined with posh, high-end apartments. After walking a bit and turning a corner, we got our first glimpse of the entire structure. It took our breath away. The sheer size of the structure was incomprehensible. The location was also extremely unique, as I had never seen a mosque right at the sea. It looked more like a palace than a mosque.

The king commissioned its construction in 1986. The mosque is a third on water, as the king was inspired by a verse in the Qur'an that states that God’s seat is upon water. He took that as a key theme, and artisans and craftsmen from all over the country were assembled to build this wonder. The courtyard is open for all visitors, and we just about made it in time before it was closed. The massive gilded doors, huge arches, humongous marble columns, and extremely intricate mosaic fountains adorned the courtyard in an exquisite blend. After the prayers, we could take a quick peek inside the mosque. Once again, the cedar wood paneling inside was otherworldly. The ceiling of the interior hall was designed in mind-boggling symmetry, with colors and panels. Hard to describe how this level of craftsmanship even exists.

That was the end of our tour, so we quickly jumped into a taxi, picked up our bags, grabbed a quick bite, and hurried to the train station. We were headed to Marrakech.

As we settled in and the train started to move, we could once again observe the landscape change before our eyes. Of course, Casa being the main city had a few more stops. But after that, there were once again just acres of tilled land, but it stood barren. We wondered if there would be any crops next or if they had just left it. Slowly, the farms turned into uncultivated land, with large swathes of barren land. It was just flat, with some trees spread sparsely. But slowly, the landscape changed again. First, the flats gave way to small hillocks, then hills, and then huge mountains—all in a span of around half an hour. The landmass had just turned into a few different shades of red. In the distance, the huge mounds looked almost like desert dunes. As we neared the city, the mountains once again vanished, and the terrain became much flatter.

We reached the city of Marrakech. From our view outside the train window, we could see the color palette this city is famous for: red. As soon as we got out, everything—buildings, streets—was red or shades of red. We took a taxi to our stay and saw firsthand the chaotic traffic. We were reminded of our homes. The taxi dropped us off just outside the old city, where cars were allowed. We walked the last few meters. We quickly freshened up and got out to roam around the Medina. At first glance, the market streets were wider than in Fes. The shops were selling more or less the same things. One big difference was the presence of two-wheelers within the tiny, already crowded streets. They zoomed around, creating even more chaos.

After loitering around, we ended up in the famous, huge square of the city: Jemaa el-Fna. One word to describe the square was "Extra." Everything was extra. There were probably around 50 or more stalls selling only grilled food. Each salesman wanted you for himself. They were very hard to ignore, and even tougher to escape. There were once again too many fruit stalls selling juice. There were some women who sat waiting for prospective customers to do henna. There were music performers, acrobats, snake charmers, monkeys doing tricks, different birds in cages, tea stalls, grilled corn cobs, ladies selling biscuits, some selling apparel or glasses. Some games were going on where people gathered around. Someone else was predicting the future. The list was endless. Nothing was surprising anymore. Anything we saw, however bizarre or mundane, felt like it belonged there.

Finally, after a few rounds, we were eventually coaxed into one of the food stalls. We sat down in rows, and the tables were set with paper, bread, olives, and some harissa paste as we sat down. We ordered some grilled food and enjoyed the street food vibe of the surroundings. We observed how the staff at the stalls celebrated each customer who was caught by their salesman. It was just a fun experience, and the food was also decent. Once we finished, we had tea at another stall and walked back to our stay after the assault on our senses.

Day 4: Marrakech

We had booked another walking tour for the day. After getting ready, we left for the meeting point, where our guide awaited us in front of our first attraction: the Koutoubia Mosque. This mosque, the largest built by one of the early rulers of the city, holds significant historical value. The guide shared stories about the various dynasties of rulers, each associated with different chiefs, kings, or Moulay, as they were called. Each dynasty contributed to the city's development in unique ways. Interestingly, when one ruler made this city the capital, the country itself was named after it.

The early rulers were not particular about the details of the structure, so the mosque was simple and not adorned in the way we would expect a normal mosque to be. The later Berber tribes, who had migrated to Europe and elsewhere, brought back the style of the Moorish kings, Arabs, and Europeans. From this eclectic mix came what we today associate with the Moroccan style: the zellige mosaic, the cedarwood paneling, the marble columns, and the ceramic artworks—all born from this fusion.

We then walked towards the Medina, where the guide told us about the old walls of clay, which were still holding up most of the buildings. The earlier earthquake had caused some damage, and slowly the owners were selling these properties to developers who could afford to renovate them and turn them into hotels for tourists.

Afterwards, we visited a cooperative society that sold local products from the community. It was similar to the experience in Fes, where a salesman explained all the products in their market.

From there, we went to the last standing Almoravid monument, which was a dome. This was the only structure that hadn’t been destroyed by subsequent rulers, offering a rare glimpse of the simplistic style they were known for.

Opposite to this was the famous Ibn Yousef Madarasa. This was, by comparison, the best madarasa we had visited. If we had to rank them, the first one we saw in Fes was beautiful, the second one in Fes was more beautiful, but this one here was by far the best we had seen.

It was larger, better preserved, and simply at least five times the size of the previous ones. The central courtyard featured a rectangular fountain. The windows and walls were once again adorned with verses from the Qur'an. The patterns and designs were much more intricate, the wooden panels were better preserved, and the green roofs were brighter and shinier. The maze of rooms on the first floor was similar to the others, but this madrasa had more rooms.

Since this was the most touristy of the madrasas, some rooms featured projections detailing the renovation process. We could have easily spent a lot more time here, but we had to move on.

As we walked deeper into the streets of the medina, we saw various parts of the old city which we might not have discovered if we had wandered on our own. The next stop was the Bahia Palace. The king Ahmed wanted to build a palace for his wife Bahia, hence the name. We just took a look from outside since the guide said we could easily spend an hour here. So, we decided to come back later. From here, we walked further toward the outer walls of the city. Just near the walls was the huge Jewish quarter called Mellah. They peacefully coexisted with all the other religions who shared the city.After Israel was formed many Moroccan jews decided to emigrate making them the second biggest Jewish group in Israel second only to Ashkenazi Jews.

This was our last stop of the tour, and the guide took us to a restaurant where we had the rooftop place reserved for our group. We all had lunch with some pleasant conversations. The terrace also had a clear view of the snow-covered Atlas Mountains in the distance. We finished our lunch and had just enough time to fit in a visit to the palace, so we hurried toward it.

The Bahia Palace, built in the late 19th century, is one of the main attractions in the city. We entered through the gates and were greeted by gardens on either side leading to the palace. We bought the tickets and noticed a huge crowd at the palace.

The palace had six elements that made up its grandeur: wood, glass, marble, mosaic, iron, and plaster. The palace was designed to be a beautiful amalgamation of all these elements.

As soon as we entered, we stepped into the le Petit Riad—the small riad. This was unlike any Riads we had seen before. There was a garden divided into four symmetric blocks with arches and rooms all around it and a small marble fountain at the center. The plants and trees somehow enhanced the already wonderfully designed courtyard structure. The rooms around it had exquisite roofs with paintings and details crammed into every corner. Some information about each room was also explained. The furniture and setup of the palace showed how it would have looked back in the day.

The rooms led to another small fountain courtyard. This further led to probably the most photographed location inside the palace. This was the massive, beautiful marble courtyard. Once again, the courtyard and its every detail were achingly symmetric and stunningly beautiful. We spent some time there just admiring the place and then headed to the large Riad.

The second Riad is also similar to the first Riad in terms of the trees and plants. This one is much bigger and has a series of quadrilaterals with the marble fountain on top of the mosaic floors. The entire space wasn’t accessible as it was under maintenance. We walked back through a few more rooms and courtyards and finally came back to the smaller Riad once again. Now it was less crowded as the closing time was nearing. We spent a few more calm moments in the beautiful courtyard and held out until the last minutes to soak it all in.

We walked back from the palace toward the Medina once again. We stopped for some Moroccan tea in one of the streets. We also tried the cactus fruit as we walked back to our stay. We sat on the terrace, watching the sunset and the vibrant colors of the clouds. We decided not to return to the main square for dinner that night. Instead, we went to a rooftop place and had dinner.

Day 5: Palace and Hammam

We got ready and got some breakfast in the main square. We had the famous Amlou with bread. It is almond butter with honey and sesame seeds. Postcards sent to friends. Juice to go. Day starts.

Our first stop was the Badi Palace. It was a huge palace commissioned by the sultan of the Saadian Dynasty in the 16th century. The sultan wanted to show off his immense power and wealth to the world and would host events and invite dignitaries from around the world. It was built using all the finest materials from around the world. The huge courtyard had pools which were under renovation. On either side of the huge pools were the ruins of villas—one still standing, the other just ruins. The standing villa, too, is under renovation. But the sunken gardens of orange and olive trees split into four quarters were very unique.

Keeping with the history of the place, the huge rooms adjoining the courtyard had exhibitions of different archaeological sites and findings around Marrakech. They showed how rivers were cleverly diverted using dams and gates to supply water to the city and surrounding towns.

There was also a projection room showing the ongoing renovation work and how they plan to finish it. Another room had a 3D render of the palace in all its past glory. Even seeing just this on a screen was so impressive. We wondered how it must have really been in its heyday when the festivities were on full display.

Next, we walked to the Saadian Tombs. This was a stunning funerary complex built by the third king of this dynasty for his father and later housing many members of the royal family. This was also built around the late 16th century and was a mix of Moorish and European styles. The most famous part was the Twelve Pillars Chamber. It was adorned with extremely intricate plaster engravings. The complex zellije mosaic was everywhere—on the floors and walls. The ceiling was once again made of cedar wood paneling. Each element complemented the others, elevating the beauty and grandeur of the huge complex.

The next stop was one of the gates to old Marrakech. Bab Agnaou is considered one of the most beautiful entrances to a city. It was also said to be the most ornate gate in the entire Islamic East. It was built to commemorate the victory against the Spanish Christian rulers sometime between the 5th and 10th centuries. It served mostly as a decorative gate rather than a security gate. But to walk through this gate and be a participant in its history was especially satisfying.

From here, we headed for lunch. We were already tired from all the walking around the huge sites and enduring the harsh sun. So, we walked back to our stay after lunch. On our way, we picked up a few fruits for the journey the next day.

After relaxing a bit, it was time for our hammam appointment. Hammam baths were an essential part of Moroccan life. People used to go to public baths once a week to participate in the communal experience. This practice has carried on, and there are many places that offer the experience. We had booked a more luxurious one since we didn't know what to expect if we went to a traditional one and were caught unaware. Many people had already told us that once we came out after the bath, it would feel like being reborn.

This was a much more private experience where just the two of us had a separate room. The entire place was kept at a high temperature, not unlike a sauna. Once changed and ready, the attendants gave us a bath, which included scrubs, masks, and several relaxing breaks. Once done, we showered and were shown the rest area. Then we had time to relax and decompress, and our bodies really did feel super clean and rejuvenated. The experience surely did live up to the hype.

We walked back home, quickly changed, and left for dinner. The bath had left us both quite hungry, so we had booked dinner at an old riad restaurant. The ambience and the magnificent structure of this place were truly magical. We basked in the beauty and atmosphere of the setting, enjoyed our meal, and headed back to our stay.

Day 6: Mountain drive and Kasbahs

We started early from our stay and left for the airport. We decided to take the bus to the airport. It was just another means of transport we wanted to experience. So we had done flight, train, bus, and now we were going to pick up a rental car.

After alighting from the bus, we found the rental and picked up the car. It was a small Fiat Panda. It was a pretty old car, but we just needed it to drive us for the next 3 days. Nothing fancy.

So we drove out of the airport and faced some nervous first few minutes adjusting to the traffic. Since this was our first driving experience in Africa, we didn't know what to expect. But it was not too chaotic as it was almost the outskirts of the city. Once we got the hang of the signals, roundabouts, and how people drove, it was a matter of settling in and letting our driving instincts kick in.

Our destination for the day was Ouarzazate city. Along the way, we had planned a few stops. We were driving in the direction of the mountains. The Atlas mountain ranges were already visible from the city, and in just half an hour's drive, we were already climbing small hills and making our progress onto higher mountains. The thing about driving in foreign countries is the ever-changing landscapes unfolding before us. It is probably one of the most interesting things to see—the unexpected colors, textures, and vegetation change over the duration of the trip. The undulating mountains were of various sizes and colors—some green, grey, brown, and red—visible all at the same time, sometimes in the same mountain. There were large stretches where there was nothing but mountains on all sides. A 360-degree view. There were many small towns and villages along the way. People were all along the road selling crystals and ammonites of different sizes, colors, and shapes, which they found in the mountains.

After driving about halfway, we reached the Tiz'n'Tchika pass. This is the highest pass on our drive today, and we decided to stop somewhere for lunch. It was a small roadside restaurant. We had a great view of the mountains all around us, clear sky, and great weather. We had our lunch there and were back on the road once again.

Our agenda for the day was to see the famous red clay fortress known as Kasbahs, built as defense structures around old cities. They were some 309 to 500 years old. During our lunch, we inquired about Telouet Kasbah, which was on a detour from our route. We were unsure whether we would have good roads if we deviated from the main road. But we were glad to take the advice from Omar, the restaurant guy, and take the detour. It was a smaller road but still in very good condition.

We drove for another hour to reach the village of Telouet. Once we reached there, we learned that it had been closed due to unstable structures after the earthquake in 2023 destabilized many buildings. But we weren't deterred. We could walk around the Kasbah and see what remained of the old clay city. It was eerie to see the walls and watchtowers sticking out, dilapidated and in ruins. We could see glimpses of old glory in the green rooftops, which were partially intact, and the gilded iron windows with colored glass. But still, they stood in between caved-in and uninhabited houses and streets. As we walked around the city walls, we could see the roof tiles and ceramic mosaics strewn all around from the earthquake. We took a small piece of a rooftop tile as a keepsake.

After a while, we drove ahead along the same road, aiming for our next destination. It was another Kasbah called Ait Ben Haddou. It was a much more popular one, better preserved, and better known due to the fact that one of the Game of Thrones episodes was shot here. But along the way, what surprised us were the different villages, which were still inhabited and built in the old style of the Kasbahs. We stopped at multiple locations where we could see entire villages of red clay structures. They were built along the cliffs, perched and stretching down into the valley, which made them so distinct.

We reached Ait Ben Haddou after some time. We parked our car and stopped for a quick tea. From the terrace of this hotel, there was a beautiful view of the entire village across the river. We walked down the bridge, which took us to the old city. Immediately, we could see that it was much better maintained and had been fully inhabited with many businesses running. All along the narrow streets were artisans displaying their wares. We climbed further ahead and marveled at how it would have looked like in the olden days. After a short climb, we reached the top of the hill. It's a vantage point where the old lookout was. The lookout was destroyed, but the view of the entire village down the hill was beautiful. All sizes and shapes and sometimes beautiful patterns on top of the buildings. It was something straight out of a movie set. It looked a lot like the Prince of Persia games we used to play.

From here, we had about an hour's drive to our next stay. This was on the outskirts of the city of Ouarzazate. We drove along, and after some patches of bad roads, we finally made it to our stay just after dark. Tired and exhausted, we ate dinner and slept.

Day 7: Oasis and Atlas studios

The next day, we woke up to see why we had stayed on the outskirts. This region was famous for its oasis. From our stay, we could see the plants and trees lining the riverbank at the center. But just outside, or behind the vegetation, were barren, rocky hills. It was a stark contrast. How life thrived in such harsh terrain was what the oasis showed us when we decided to take a walk through it.

The walk was gradual, and a small path used by the villagers ran along and through it. As we walked along, we saw various fruit trees—dates, pomegranates, oranges, and citrus trees growing wildly everywhere. We were delighted to find some ripe dates fallen along the way, and we picked some to eat on the spot. After a while, the path led to the small river in the middle with just a little water trickling along. We could see frogs, fish, and turtles swimming in it, with many different types of birds flying around too. It was a mini ecosystem that thrived there.

After the walk, we checked out of the stay and drove to another old Kasbah nearby on our way to Ouarzazate. But these were in no way comparable to the ones we had seen the previous day. Once we were in the city, our stop was another new Kasbah inside Ouarzazate. We quickly found out that they were setting up a newer city within the older Kasbahs. They looked old from the outside but were completely new on the inside with modern facilities. Maybe they had intentions of selling it to businesses later. It was not the same experience as visiting the authentic ones from before.

After lunch, we decided to start our long drive back to Marrakech. We had another stop planned on the way: the Atlas Studios. Apparently, the town of Ouarzazate is called the Hollywood of Morocco. The studio was a typical film studio with many different sets representing various African settings—Egyptian, Arabian, and Persian sets. A guide explained the many famous movies that had been shot there. It was a quirky stop before we got back on the road. Once again, we could see the mountains, this time in sunset colors, and it was a long and winding drive back to Marrakech.

Day 8: Beach

The next day, we got to see much more of the beautiful stay we had booked. It was aesthetically designed and sat on an abundant farm with all kinds of produce. We were half-minded to stay back and enjoy the rest of the day there.

But we were back on the road. This time, we were driving toward the coast, headed to Essaouira. We drove for another three hours and once again saw the changing landscapes along the way. This time, we noticed that as we neared the coast, the famous argan trees began to crop up on both sides of the road. There were also a few refineries along the way, extracting argan oil and olive oil.

After a while, we could see the coast at a distance, and the city stretched along the shore. We drove down the hills into the city, greeted by the familiar smells of the coast and the humidity hitting our faces. Once we parked the car, we walked into the old town where our stay was located. Inside the Medina, we were instantly hit with the pungent smell of fish and the sea. It wasn't a pleasant smell. We checked in, put down our bags, and walked out to explore the old town.

This city looked much different from the other Medinas we had seen before. There was a lot of Portuguese influence, from the design of the doors to the colors of the buildings and the forts. As we walked toward the city square, we saw very European-style forts that ended right at the sea. The walls were fortified with huge gates and cannons lining the entire fort, facing the sea. The round gates were usually manned by lookouts who would alert the city if enemies were approaching from the sea.

We stopped for lunch in the old city and then made our way to the port. This is where the entire life of the fishermen was. The port was bustling with activity, and the smells hitting us almost made us dizzy. The seagulls relentlessly flew overhead, trying to steal from the vendors. We could see many different kinds of sea life on display for the buyers. This was one of the busiest fish markets we had seen.

As we turned and walked beyond the port, the sea extended to a beautiful, long beach. The promenade by the sea stretched to the end of the beach. Here, the activity was much more relaxed. Many families were strolling along, kids playing football, some playing in the sea, and others just hanging around with friends. It was a typical beach. We also strolled barefoot into the sea, feeling the cold waves crash against our feet. The waves were gentle, creating beautiful patterns on the sand each time they came in. We had a nice time, just taking in the scenery and relaxing on the beach. We also had some beach side snacks just like in our beaches back home. We had boiled chana with some seasoning and boiled corncob to complete our beach outing.

After that, we returned to our stay, and inevitably, we had to pack our luggage. We had to leave the next day and had many things to organize. Once we were done, we went for dinner and, once again, couldn't resist one last walk to look at the sea. On our way we saw the bustling night markets inside the Medina. Once we arrived at the beach, we stayed until late, just watching the waves and the seagulls glowing in the dark, lit strangely by the bright lights from the beach at a distance. We trudged back home, and then it was time for bed.

Day 9: Return journey

We got up and left immediately after breakfast. We had to spend our remaining local currency and then return our rental car. We had heard many accounts of delays at Marrakech airport. So, we drove back and arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare.

After returning the rental car, we stood in several queues to get stamps at different areas. We had an issue with our bags and had to pay extra. The queues were long, and the passengers were impatient. It was not a pleasant way to end an enjoyable trip. Despite the number of times we had traveled with Ryanair, the last-minute uncertainty still left us wondering if it was worth the hassle.

But we made it to the gates on time and boarded the plane without any further issues. Once we landed we were welcomed to thick fog blanketing the entire airport runways. We waited in the long queue for the immigration checks. 

Once outside, we quickly picked up the car and then began our return drive back to our home. It was quiet late due to the delay in flight and we had no option for dinner in any restaurants since it was a Sunday night. But luckily we found some place where only french fries were available. We quickly gobbled it up and then were back on the road. The entire way was blanketed with fog hampering the visibility. After the two hours drive, we finally reached home safe and sound, with our hearts and heads full from the wonderful adventure!